Hemline Easy Grip Pins

Pins are often underestimated when we consider the equipment we use for sewing.  How many of us have pins which we have had so long their origins are lost in the midst of time?  I know I have some that were probably from my mum when she taught me dressmaking for my Cindy and Barbie dolls. They are short, a little too thick and now as blunt as anything so,  I decided to look around for some new ones.

Easy Grip Pins

Hemline is a well known name in haberdashery and I was kindly sent a box of these Easy Grip Pins to test for Groves.  (Email them at groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk for stockist information.) They come in Hemline’s recognisable plastic box which is perfect for storage and transport, they are 42mm long and you get approximately 60 to a pack.

The pins themselves are delightfully sharp – something you don’t always get with cheaper varieties.  (I bought some recently which were atrocious – lesson learnt, you get what you pay for!) They also have a larger, bulbous head which makes pinning so much easier.  They definitely do what they suggest;  provide an easy grip and are less fiddly to use.

They also lie reasonably flat which is an advantage for patchwork,  something I also like when dressmaking as I’m too lazy to fully tack my pieces prior to sewing.

Selection of pin cushions

Overall these pins are worth investing in as they will give you many years of use but how can we improve the life of our pins?  The box these come in is great for taking to workshops or travelling but I do like a nice pin cushion.  

At Strictly Quilting HQ we love to make different kinds from mini quilt blocks to dachshunds, caravans to embroidered cushions which, being a little larger, are great next to your machine.  I find a smaller pin cushion is difficult to stab at with a pin when I am concentrating on operating the machine.  A larger one to my right and I can hit it every time without taking my eyes from my work.

Another advantage to making your own is to fill them with something that will help keep your pins sharp.  You can use wire wool but I like to use crushed walnut shells and have some with a lavender scent.  Also useful for discouraging insects and is relaxing.  Adding some natural wool, I picked some from the hedges on a walk, can also be of benefit.  The lanolin in the sheep fleece helps keep your pins rust free, but as these pins are nickel plated carbon steel I don’t really thing I’d have to worry about this.

So, if you feel you are in need of some new pins, these are certainly worth considering but also think about a new pincushion.  Also great for using up scraps from other projects!

Crease Marker from Sew Easy

Do you ever get to that moment when you’ve finished piecing a quilt top and get a little bit daunted by the next stage – the quilting?  

When quilting,  I sometimes quilt by domestic machine, using both the walking foot (which I think is very underestimated) and free motion options.  I also love quilting by hand but whichever method I choose I find I can get a little stumped as to how to mark out the design on the quilt top.

Sometimes I know exactly what design to use, sometimes I have to put the top away for a while before inspiration strikes but, once I’ve decided, how do we mark the top so we can quilt it out?

Introducing one of my favourite pieces of equipment (also fabulously cheap in comparison with a lot of must have tools) the Crease Marker from Sew Easy.  

This wonderful little gadget is a simple piece of firm plastic, which has a spatular like blunt blade at one end, the other a handle. Used against a ruler you get perfectly straight lines but I also like to ‘freehand’ with it to create curves, such as leaf shapes I recently hand quilted.  You can also use a template to draw around,  such as a heart which I also used in conjunction with the Crease Marker.

The thing I like most about this gadget is that it leaves a crease line in the top which you can follow but doesn’t leave any chalk or ink which can sometimes be a little hard to remove.  My image doesn’t really do it justice, you can see the indent.  If sewing in poorer light it sometimes takes a little adjustment of the angle to be able to follow the crease on darker fabrics but I’ve only found this a problem when hand stitching on an evening.

I’m hand quilting a large quilt at the moment (and will be for another few years I’m estimating!) and am taking it one block at a time.  It’s slowly getting there and I would have struggled to mark the many different ideas without this tool.

I recently started to organise my equipment as I’m setting up a new teaching studio.  I can hear the builders digger as I type and,  rather than fumbling around for hand quilting needles,  thread and all the little items I use when hand quilting,  I gathered them all together into a hand quilting kit – in a lovely tin,  of course.  This has made it much easier to find everything I need and the Crease Marker has earned its place there.

Overall I can certainly recommend this little item and special thanks to Groves for letting me test the Crease Marker from Sew Easy.

Sew A Fine Seam – The Dark Side

The Dark Side – What is this mystical Dark Side and why do we want to go there?

I’m sure you have heard of the particular space film legacy where the “Dark Side” is of such importance. At Strictly Quilting headquarters it is a well loved favourite and in patchwork and quilting we have the same level of respect for the “Dark Side”. You will hear “press your seams to the Dark Side” regularly but why?

In this blog I’m going to answer that exact question – the reasons behind the Dark Side. This then gives you the information to understand when you can break that rule,  because you will find times when you’ll do that. But first, perhaps I should explain what the Dark Side actually is.

When you sew two patches together, you will normally have a lighter fabric and a darker fabric.  Obviously, this is not always the case but when you come to press the seam allowance over,  working from the back of the fabric,  you press it towards the darker of the fabrics. It is as simple as that. Let us now look at the reasons why…

Raw fleece

Historically, especially in Britain, we used natural wool fleece for our wadding or batting. This sometimes was washed and carded to clean it and make the fibres lie flat but sometimes it was picked off the hedgerows and utilised, especially by the crofter at the poorer end of society. Nothing was wasted but this did mean that those fibres were loose within the quilt sandwich, even those carded ones weren’t meshed together and could migrate when the quilt was used.  To stop this,  quilting tended to be denser.  You’ll see examples of that in historic quilts. Sometimes old wool blankets were also used along with scraps of woollen cloth. Fixing these ‘fillings’ also required dense stitching.

These days we have the advantage of modern production methods which bind the fibres in place to avoid this occurring.  As a note, your wadding or batting will have a minimum quilting distance. This can be up to 10″ apart but even then, I prefer to quilt closer than this.

To help stop these wadding fibres from migrating out through those hand stitched seams, the seam allowance was pressed to the dark side. This locked the seam, stopping the wadding fibres from wiggling their way out between the stitching of the quilt top.

Another reason for pressing to the dark side is to avoid seeing the seam allowance from the front of the quilt. When you press a seam you will be able to see it through a lighter fabric. By pressing to the dark you can’t actually see it through the quilt. There are times of course, when this is not possible, perhaps you don’t have a dark side to press to or we actually choose to break this rule. On these occasions you can think about how the quilt looks from the right side and make a decision based on that.  You can see below that by breaking the ‘dark side’ rule, we can spiral or pinwheel the centre seam junction. This significantly reduces the bulk of the seam at this point, allowing the quilt to lie flatter.

The last reason I’d like to mention is that of “In the Ditch” quilting. Another phrase you will hear regarding the actual quilting of the pieced top.  When you press to the dark side one side of the seam will sit higher than the other.  You then quilt, usually on a machine, in the ditch that is created on the front. When the fabric of the top relaxes after stitching this line it should be virtually hidden in the seam line.  If you press your seams open, your needle will just be stitching over the thread used to join the fabric patches and not catch any of the actual fabric.  This looses integrity, the quilting will not be strong enough and may break and wear out faster.  If you plan on doing In the Ditch quilting, press to the dark side…. Do not press open.

Pinwheeled junctions to reduce bulk.

But when can you press your seams open?  This is a big debate with quilters,  I have known many experienced quilters say “NEVER!” (With a strong Winston Churchill impression!)  But I don’t fall into this camp.  There are occasions when I have and do, press my seams open.  If I’ve had a quilt where the majority of the piecing is in the same fabric, such as a background made in white or light cream, I may consider piecing open to give the same look to each block from the right side of the top.  Sometimes,  pressing open helps spread bulk, such as in a Le Moyne quilt block or a Mariner’s Compass.  I have found occasions where I ended with a crisper finish by pressing these open.  BUT, remember what I said about the way these are then quilted. No In the Ditch for these quilts. 

In the next Sew a Fine Seam blog I’ll look at the actual pressing of those seams. 

Until next time, stay safe and keep quilting!

Quilters Graph Paper

When starting out with patchwork and quilting,  beginners frequently see a pattern or design they would like to make but are unsure how to translate that into a quilt.  I recently was given some 12″ by 12″ Graph Paper for Quilters and Papercraft pads from Sew Easy to try out and what a wonderful thing – perfect for designing blocks and quilts. 

Sew Easy Graph Paper for Quilters and Papercraft

You get 25, 12″ square sheets which are divided up into inch squares sectioned into fours – for the four quarters. They also have four, eight and twelve inch dividing lines to make it easy to grid out different sizes of quilt blocks.  

But how do we draft a basic design? 

I have a friend, Daisy, staying with us through lockdown at the moment and she has only just started her sewing journey.  She wanted to make some cushions and some glasses cases and so we used the Quilters Graph paper to plan the designs, going for a modern block layout rather than more traditional quilt blocks. 

These would make a lovely Mother’s Day gift which are quick and easy to make.  They would also be great for craft fairs or charity sales. It is suitable for children with help depending on age and also perfect for beginners who would like to make something useful and learn a few skills on the way.  You could easily change the size for larger glasses as I did for my sun glasses.  This is where the graph paper is so handy –  simply draft out a different size and calculate the pieces you need to cut. Sew Easy! 

First, decide on the overall size.  For the glasses slip case, we went for a 7 1/2″ square.  Check with the actual glasses you want to put inside them – mine are quite small but some have larger lenses which would need an increase in size. Easily done with the graph paper.

We then drafted the design and used colouring pencils to decide on the fabric placement. Each block is then easy to count how many inches it needs to be BUT don’t forget to add seam allowances!  I draft my pattern’s finished size and just add half an inch to all dimensions. Easy to remember and it works for me. 

Then cut your pieces of fabric to the required size. You can either use your rotary cutters and rulers or go ‘old school’ and make templates. These are again easy, I still have mine cut from cereal boxes when I was first learning.  They still come in handy and they don’t have the associated cost when starting out. Rotary mats, cutters and rulers are expensive!  Make sure your templates are accurate (including the seam allowance) and then use a pencil to draw around them on the wrong side of the fabric. Use scissors to carefully cut out the shapes.  

Daisy made her glasses case fully by hand whilst I went for speed and used my sewing machine. If sewing by hand,  it is handy to mark your sewing line, 1/4” in from the edge. Again, use a pencil to draw the line on the wrong side of the fabric. Then you can sew the sections together. 

We added a scrap of wadding and quilted the outer as this provides additional protection to the contents.  It’s a great way to learn how to quilt and simply have a go if you haven’t done it before. 

Cut another square of lining fabric, you can use any cotton or poly/cotton for this as it won’t be seen.  Using up old shirts or bedding is something I do but make sure it isn’t stretchy. 

We also added a little tab to pop a button on to hold the case closed.  You can use your machine or hand sew a button hole or use a press stud.  A little piece of velcro is another option – hook piece on one side,  hoop piece on the other.

If you used Velcro or a press stud you can still add a decorative button which gives a professional finish to the case.

You can find the full pattern in my shop here.… Happy Mother’s Day!

Sew a Fine Seam – The Scant Seam

Welcome to my next instalment of the Sew a Fine Seam series of blogs. 

In my previous Sew a Fine Seam blog I mentioned the ‘scant’ seam.  You will hear this quoted as the only way to get accurately pieced blocks but what exactly does it mean and why? 

When we see a block we would like to make it’s usually drawn or printed on a page of a book or magazine. This is a 2D image which we try and make out of a 3D substance – the fabric.  Fabric has a depth, albeit a tiny one, but we have to accommodate this thickness.  

(As an aside, fabric is graded by weight rather than thickness.  The weight of one square metre of fabric will give you the grade of fabric. The heavier the weight usually means the fabric is thicker. Quilting cottons are usually of a medium weight.)

Once we have joined our seam we need to press the allowance on the back over to one side – ‘the dark side’. (Yes, remember that space film and I’ll cover this in the next blog.)  The folding process reduces the size of the seam allowance by a scant amount, meaning that this will change the actual width of the block. To try and stick to the perfectly drawn 2D image of the quilt block we are trying to create,  we need to allow for this tiny amount and so we sew a scant seam.  Literally a tiny bit towards the raw edge of the seam allowance. 

So, how do we get a good scant seam?  I now introduce the 1/4” foot for your machine or drawing a line to sew along for hand piecing.  Let’s look at these separately.

For machine sewing a quarter inch foot is a handy guide to help BUT these are rarely accurate and they can bend a little too! The best thing to do is to check the seam allowance of your particular foot and, armed with this knowledge, you can change your needle position to make the required adjustment.  If you are unable to move your needle position,  you can adjust where you guide the fabric to make the relevant change.

1/4″ Foot. The guide on the right side sets the distance from the needle.

To check your 1/4” foot take three pieces of accurately cut fabric: 1 1/2″ by 2 1/2″ Rectangles. Sew two of them down their length.  They should finish to make a 2 1/2″ square.  Take the third rectangle and sew it across the top.  It should fit exactly. If not, it will indicate exactly how much your foot it out.

Hand sewing – I do like to mark my seam allowance which is easily done.  You can use your clear rotary ruler which should be marked with the 1/4″ but I find a Quilter’s Rule useful. Not so cumbersome and much cheaper.  They are around £2 and you can get them in both 6″ or 12″ lengths.  They are a 1/4″ square of plastic which you position against the raw edge and draw a line done.  

Drawing the line also needs attention. Use a sharp pencil or marker and make sure the nib sits right up against the ruler.  If you just draw without care you’ll find your line is millimetres away from where it should be and is a common mistake. The advantage to hand sewing is that it is more forgiving. You can make minor adjustments as you go along to ensure those points aren’t lost. 

Another tip is to position your rule with the 1/4” just off the edge, and I mean a tiny amount. Then, when you draw the line, the mark will be precisely at the 1/4 rather than being 1mm to the right of where it should be. 

These little hints and tips can help you improve your piecing and get to grips with the magical world of patchwork and quilting.  Next time we’ll take a look at pressing which can make a world of difference…

Until next time, stay safe and keep quilting!

Rotary Cutting Made Sew Easy….

I frequently get asked how to make rotary cutting easier for the beginner or for the experienced quilter who has joint issues.  This can strike anyone at any age as someone who suffered RSI throughout my 30s and 40s quite severely, holding a quilters ruler steady whilst cutting can be difficult.  My son’s girlfriend has been staying with us for a while and I recently taught her to make her first quilted cushion – she’s now obsessed and has 30 projects lined up but she struggled with rotary cutting due to weak wrists, as she put it.

Sew Easy Quilters Ruler Handle

But what can we do about this? Sew Easy have a product they kindly sent me to try to see if it makes it easier to hold a ruler steady whilst cutting. When I opened the box I found it smaller than I’d imagined – but that’s not a bad thing.  It’s much easier to store and pack to take to workshops.  Some others I’ve experienced are very large lumps of plastic which,  although work, can be heavy themselves and a pain to cart around.

The Sew Easy Quilters Ruler Handle is roughly 4″ long with two suction cups to attach it to your plastic rotary ruler. The idea is that it spreads the load of the downward pressure you apply whilst cutting, giving a firmer hold.

The handle is ergonomically shaped to allow the fingers to rest naturally and is quite comfortable.  Although, I frequently used it with my hand resting on the top, again comfortable.  I found the suction cups stick best with a little water to dampen them and were also easy to remove by lifting the edge with my fingernail.

Then it came to trying it out – would it work, holding the ruler firm,  as I cut fabric? My first fabric cut was a narrow sashing band from a full width of fabric.  I was cutting 1 1/2” strips and I did find it was best to move the handle closer to the edge when dealing with such narrow strips. ( But I was cutting through eight layers to really test it! I normally only cut a maximum of four.)

The only problem with this was that the measuring line I wanted to see was under the handle and a bit tricky – but I wouldn’t normally cut like this. My only other criticism was that it was a little wobbly when used with my long 24″ ruler. I found it most useful with my smaller rulers which I usually favour for cutting down the width of fabric strips I’ve already cut with the larger one. 

Moving on to a less extreme test, I began cutting for a beginner sampler quilt I am assembling ready for my new workshop at Strictly Quilting HQ.  

This less extreme test, cutting a sensible number of layers was successful. It certainly helped in holding the ruler straight. I cut a variety of strips and smaller pieces and found the more I use it, the more comfortable I am with it.

Overall, this is a useful addition to your rulers. It certainly lessens the stress on the wrists and I’ll keep it handy from now on. 

Special thanks to Groves for providing the Sew Easy Quilters Ruler Handle for review. 

Sew a Fine Seam – Why Imperial?

Welcome to a new series of blogs that will concentrate on aspects of patchwork and quilting for the beginner but those who have enjoyed the craft for some time may also pick up some hints and tips.

You may be an experienced seamstress or tailor, or not touched a needle since your school days but learning to make quilts a fantastic skill.  I always say that when learning P&Q you are learning two different crafts.  Imaging a family tree – one for patchwork and one for quilting.  You travel up the trunk of the patchwork tree and find that it splits into many, many different branches.  Do you prefer hand sewing or machining? Let’s take the hand sewing branch. Oh look, appliqué – needle turned, fusible or raw edge? The machining branch is the same, each splitting into infinite branches down which your needle may take you.  

Under the needle

Once your top is made we then have to tackle the quilting tree.  Again, hand or machine?  The machine branch can split into domestic machine, mid or long arm. Walking foot or free motion. When you first start it’s easy to think that the simple baby quilt you are making as a gift is all that is involved but it is just the first step of what, for some of us, is a lifelong journey.

In this series I’m going to cover a few of the basics to help you take your first steps.  I am a firm believer in ‘learn the rules like a pro,  so you can break them like an artist’ – a quote from Picasso – and he was right.  Often, I have found those basics I learnt at my local quilt shop (LQS) years ago hold me in good stead for problems I face now. 

So, where do we start?  With sewing a fine seam.  In patchwork we use a 1/4″ seam allowance which is narrower than we use when sewing other items, the standard being 1.5cm (5/8″).  

We use inches in patchwork and quilting “but why?” I hear you cry.  There are a couple of reasons.  Firstly,  a lot of the patterns we use originated from the pre-decimal era. In America patterns were printed for public use in magazines and newspapers and were available to purchase by post from the mid 1800s.  These were obviously in Imperial and are a wonderful source to explore.  

Hand Quilted Pinwheel block.

Secondly,  the 1/4″ seam allowance is easier to measure than the exact metric conversion of 6.35mm.  Accuracy is everything when piecing and the more consistent you can be will ensure a good result. This sounds scary but using Imperial measurements is simply easier.  

Another reason is that a lot of our patterns and products come from America where P&Q is a huge business, considerably larger than that of the UK, or even Europe as a whole.  We do purchase our fabrics by metric, cm and metres, but we then work in inches for the making.

As said earlier, a lot of the patterns we use were originally devised in Imperial.  Let’s look at the traditional Nine Patch block.  A set of nine squares joined together.  Usually one of the first blocks we learn how to make but let’s get to the maths.  

In Imperial, this is easy to change the size of the individual squares to change the block size to make a quilt of any dimension but doing the same in metric is more tricky.

Nine Patch block finished size 9″, unfinished size 9 1/2″ (9 inches plus the two 1/4″ seam allowances). 

In metric this is 228.6mm finished or 241.3mm unfinished.

Let us round up those numbers to make it simpler.  We know that we use a seam allowance of 6.35mm – for ease we can use 6mm as we should use a ‘scant’ but I’ll come to that later.

Our 9” block would be 22.8cm – we’ll round up to 23cm.  Add on the 6mm seam allowance for both sides and you get 24.2cm for the finished block.  

You can see the problem. 

And so inches it is. 

In my next blog, we’ll take a look at the scant seam. I’ll give a few hints and tips on how to get the perfect seam allowance for both machine and hand piecing in our journey to sewing a fine seam.

Until next time,  stay safe and keep quilting.

A New Arrival

Well,  this week has been full of excitement – the arrival of my new workshop.  Admittedly it is still in pieces (and my, there are a lot of pieces) but like a good quilt, a little time and it will soon be up ready.

I ordered the log cabin from Dunster House who were recommended by two different people.  I’ve certainly been impressed so far – the two men who delivered the cabin were so careful with the stacking and placement of the different bits I’m confident that it should be a fairly easy job to assemble. They were very Covid secure too!

Another feature of the past week was my UKQU blog, Sew a Fine Seam part 1, was published.  You can find it here and it covers why we use inches – Imperial measurements – for patchwork and quilting which can be confusing for the beginner. 

The next blog will cover the ‘scant’ seam allowance – what it is, why we try to use it and how with both machine and hand sewing and should be out soon.

I’ve also been playing with YouTube and setting up my own Channel with the aim of posting some videos and slide shows once the workshop is up and running.

Finally,  my copy of February’s British Patchwork and Quilting magazine arrived in which, is my feature on the lovely Portishead Quilters and their efforts to make quilts for veterans.  A fantastic project and was a privilege to write. You can also see my Ombré Bubbles quilt from the last issue here too!

Until next time, stay safe.

Double Fold Binding Tutorial

How to add a double fold strip of binding to your quilt edge, how to mitre the corners and join the strip.

You’ll find a Backing and Binding Calculations pdf to help you work out how much binding you need for your quilt. You can download a copy so you always have it to hand. The normal width of the Double Fold binding strip is 2½” but I actually find 2¼” gives a better finish. Use whichever you feel comfortable with, you could start with 2½” and, when you feel more confident try 2¼”.

Cut the required number of strips at your chosen width such as 2¼”.

Join with a diagonal seam. This spreads out the seam allowance in the binding so you don’t end up with a bulky lump which would happen if you joined with a straight seam. To do this lay your first strip, right side up. Lay your second strip, right sides together at a 45° angle. Fold over the corner and press a diagonal line from one corner to the other. This becomes your seam line. Sew and trim the excess leaving a ¼” seam allowance. Press this open to reduce bulk further.

Join across the diagonal.
Trim leaving 1/4″ seam allowance

Fold the strip in half wrong sides together along the length and press.

I find it helps to sew a narrow stitching line around the edge of the quilt, about 1/8″ from the edge. This gives a solid edge to join the binding too but you don’t have to take this step.

With the quilt pieced/right side up, align the raw edges of the quilt and the binding. You can pin the binding in place if you wish but you may find it easier not to. The binding does ‘shift’ as you sew it in place and try and avoid having a join at a corner, the excess fabric makes it tricky. The foot of your machine will push some excess fabric towards you as you sew.  

Making sure you leave at least 6″ of the start of the binding hanging loose and begin stitching with a 1/4″ seam.

Start sewing leaving at least 6″ of binding free at the start.

As you approach a corner, fold the binding to the right and finger press a 45° line across the corner. This is a guide only. You may find the fabric moves a little as you approach and the fold is to help you see where the 45° line should be to exit the corner. You want to stop when you reach this line (usually just before your fold), lift your foot with the needle down, and turn to head along this 45° line off the corner of the quilt. Cut the threads to move onto the next side.

Fold and finger press to form a crease line.
Crease to give you an idea where to stitch.
When you reach the line, stitch off at a 45° angle.
Crease is a guide for the 45° angle
Fold the binding to the right,
Continue all the way around.

Fold the binding out to the right and then bring back, aligning the short side with the edge of your quilt. This will allow room to turn the binding giving you a mitre at the corner when you come to Slip Stitch it down on the reverse. You will have a triangular flap of binding on the inside. 

Turn your quilt so you are starting again at the corner and repeat down the next side. Continue until you are approaching your starting point but STOP about 8″ short.

Stop leaving a rough 8″ gap.

Now we come to joining the binding. Trim one end of the binding in the middle of your gap, the section you haven’t joined yet.

Overlap the other end of the binding and trim with an overlap of the same width of your binding. You can use a piece trimmed off to measure this. If you have cut the binding to be 2½” then the overlap should also be 2½”.

Trim one end of your binding to the centre of your gap.
Use the scrap trimmed off as a measure.
Trim second edge, width of overlap should be the same width as the strip.

You can now bring both ends of the binding right sides together at a 45° in the same way you joined the initial strips. Fold to show your seam line and sew. It can help to add a couple of pins to hold it in place. Sew along the diagonal seam line.

Both ends trimmed.
Right sides together, join the binding with a diagonal seam as before.

Sew a diagonal seam.

Check it fits, now is the time to adjust.

Before trimming the excess check it fits properly. Now is the time to discover mistakes as you can easily unpick the seam quickly and re-sew. Once you are happy, then you can trim the excess, align the raw edges as before and sew the remaining binding gap closed.

Trim leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Sew gap closed.

All that remains is to fold the binding over the the reverse side and Slip Stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. I like to use plastic clips to hold the binding in place whilst I hand sew.

I hope this series of images has helped with adding a Double Fold Binding. You can download the Backing and Binding Calculations sheet here:

Ombré Bubbles Lap Quilt

The December issue of British Patchwork and Quilting magazine has landed and I’m excited as you can find my Ombré Bubbles lap quilt as one of the projects.

British Patchwork and Quilting magazine, Dec 2020 issue.

Made from delightful fabrics in ombré batik shades from EQSUK they really pop with warm colours. The collection is called Landscape Batiks from Kingfisher Fabrics. They would also be perfect for textile art due to the colours which change and drift across the surface.

If you’d like to find stockist information click here.

Kingfisher fabrics, Landscape Batiks, EQSUK

Made using the Drunkard’s Path block which is really fun and versatile, you can play with the layout to make different designs. The Drunkard’s Path block was named for the weaving path that you can get using this block. It was also adopted in the early 20th century by the prohibition movement.

Ombré Bubbles in progress on my design wall.

I use a simple three pin method to sew the curves and it is much easier than you think. The ombré fabrics work so well as you can change the colour balance by using a different section of the fabric. If you are interested in a workshop on the curves of the Drunkard’s Path block, contact me at Helen@strictlyquilting.com.

Ombré Bubbles lap quilt.